Fashion | 28 january

Schiaparelli SS25 Haute couture: Reworking History with Modern Baroque

There’s no better way to kick off Paris Haute Couture week than with Schiaparelli’s boldly glamorous entrance. Classic yet experimental, elegant yet fearless. Daniel Roseberry continues Schiaparelli’s legacy as he celebrates the female gaze, crafting couture that truly brings out the beauty in women.

The new Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled ICARUS, embraces history while feeling vividly surreal and futuristic. From antique 20th-century ribbons to striking 1950s silhouettes from the golden age of Haute Couture, traces of reinvented fashion history are intricately woven into each garment.

“I realised what I wanted to do: create something that feels new because it’s old,” Roseberry notes. “I’m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity. Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant?” It seems that the answer lies within this new collection. Despite the nods to the past, these designs feel fresh and futuristic. Through avant-garde techniques, such as reworking pre-war Schiaparelli jackets, manipulation of silhouettes, and experimenting with feather textures, Daniel Roseberry brings modern baroqueness to life with every piece. As we continue to reminisce about the past influences of Haute Couture, Schiaparelli’s new creations gives us an opportunity to remain optimistic about the future of fashion.

Roseberry creates a mesmerising gold illusion with cascading duchess satin ribbons, strikingly contrasted with black velvet strips.

The off-the-shoulder corset jacket, adorned with rhinestones and pearls, elevates this heavenly velvet look. Who knew velvet could looks this good in 2025?

In the notes about the ICARUS collection, Daniel Roseberry reflects on drawing inspiration from legendary couturiers like Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, and Azzedine Alaïa: “didn’t want to copy their work; I wanted to learn from them.”